There’s having a meal, and there’s having a dining experience. In this article and accompanying Real Food Traveler podcast, our Europe Editor, Irvina Lew, paints a delicious picture of what it’s like to dine at one of the world’s most exquisite restaurants, Le Louis XV Alain Ducasse at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo.

Save this article about Le Louis XV Alain Ducasse to Pinterest. Photos by Irvina Lew except the exterior of the restaurant which is by Delphine Bouraoui. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.

Listen to this special episode of the Real Food Traveler Podcast with guest host, Irvina Lew and her guests, Restaurant Manager Claire Sonnet and Chef Emmanuel Pilon.

I have been captivated by Monaco since Grace Kelly married Prince Ranier, in 1956, when I was a schoolgirl. The principality has been the epitome of glamour, beauty, elegance, plus a touch of magic, since then. My repeat visits, since 1990, and they include 2018, 2019 and 2023, affirm the opinion formed in my youth.

On my first trip, I arrived via a seven-minute helicopter ride on Heli Air Monaco, from Nice- Côte d’Azur airport; I have never forgotten that first glimpse of the snow-capped Alps and the megayacht-strewn Mediterranean. But the only restaurant meal that I remember was at Café de Paris, where I ordered a Salade Niçoise, which I continue to eat, while watching throngs taking photos in Casino Square.

The meal engraved on my memory took place some years later, at Le Louis XV Alain Ducasse at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo. Here’s what I wrote about it, in a previous story about Alain Ducasse restaurants in Paris, for Realfoodtraveler.com:

“The first (memorable Ducasse meal) was at LE LOUIS XV, within L’Hotel de Paris, in Monte Carlo, where, in 2000, my late husband and I memorably lunched at the first hotel-based restaurant to ever earn three Michelin stars (1990). That Riviera-centric menu glorified local produce; and, before many Americans identified as vegetarian — or were even aware of farm-to-table fare — that grand menu featured fresh pea soup, artichokes, eggplant and asparagus, garden vegetables and three mushroom preparations. Bien sûr, the illustrious Michelin three-star chef elevated them with panache; he added truffles, sauce mousseline or simply, the finest Ligurian olive oil and balsamic vinegar, which were served artfully. The shellfish and loup were sourced in the Mediterranean; the lobster from Brittany, the Turbot from Normandy and the salmon was sauvage (wild).

 “Yet, what I recall most were the exciting first-for-me experiences. One was a little stool on which to perch my purse was placed by my chair. Even if that idea was not unique to Ducasse, his execution was clearly extraordinary: each stool was upholstered with a one-of-a-kind, hand-stitched, needlepoint tapestry. My second memory was a long, elegant-looking cart laden with pots, brimming with live herbs; the server picked up his silver scissor and clipped whatever fresh greenery was appropriate for the dish, or requested. WOW!”

That lunch introduced me to le style Ducasse, pure flavors and immaculate attention to every detail: ingredients, preparation, hospitality and décor. I became a fan of the chef/restaurateur who has amassed more Michelin stars than any other living chef, 20, and who operates about 30 eateries in eight countries. I vowed to dine in as many of his restaurants as I could, and I have, in Hong Kong, Monte Carlo, New York, Saint Petersburg, and Paris.

Just recently, I learned the origin story of Le Louis XV.

In 1987, Prince Rainier dined at the Riviera restaurant where the young, Michelin two-star chef reigned and offered him a deal he didn’t refuse. The prince challenged him to open a restaurant in Hôtel de Paris, and earn three Michelin stars within four years, or… be fired. Ducasse achieved this lofty goal in 33 months and Le Louis XV became the chef’s first three-star award; the restaurant became the first hotel restaurant ever to be awarded three stars.

Although I’ve dined at many restaurants in Monte Carlo, our recent dinner at Louis XV, on May 15, 2023 was only my second experience. Restaurant Manager, Claire Sonnet, who was presented with a prestigious Michelin Service Award, 2023, met us at the statue of Louis XV astride his horse in the lobby, near the restaurant entrance. She led us to through the kitchen to a private, glass-walled chef’s table, where we met Head Sommelier, Maxime Pastor, and Chef Emmanuel Pilon, who only started as head chef, in 2022, and already has earned his own Michelin three-star award. During the conversation, I learned that the chef and restaurant manager had worked together, years before, at the former Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, in Paris, a three-star destination, where I was fortunate to have dined, twice.

Left-to-right, Restaurant Manager Claire Sonnet, author Irvina Lew, Head Sommelier, Maxime Pastor, and Chef Emmanuel Pilon.

My take-away from our chat was that Chef Ducasse had a good deal of confiance (trust) in the 35-year old chef and that he wanted him to express himself in his own cuisine.

Having confirmed our plans for the long-distance podcast, Mme Sonnet led us to our table in the formal dining room.

Le Louis XV Alain Ducasse at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo Dining Experience

Elements of the historic setting — its Versailles-inspired mirrors, gilded walls, tall windows and Baroque-like molding — were unchanged. Indeed, the high, domed, circular ceiling painted with cherubs and portraits of the king’s lovers — including Madame Pompadour and Madame du Barry — remains. Yet, the room has an entirely updated classic “look,” that reflects a reinterpretation by designers Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku. They added a lighted ring that hangs and glows like a diamond choker from four cables attached to the ceiling. On tables, Murano glass lanterns diffuse the light. And, the most comfortable, silky soft, cream-colored, leather chairs surround tables, which are flanked by little, leather, “horse-like” sculptures, designed to hold a purse. The designers also created a smartly-devised service area in the center of the room, which acts as a hub for the sommeliers and waitstaff.

The historic ceiling as adorned by a circle of lights, illuminating the restaurant.

Like Ducasse, Chef Pilon integrates artisanal local ingredients, particularly the produce that he chooses, personally, from two local markets, at Cours Saleya, in Vieux Nice, and from Daniele, in Ventimiglia, Italy. He told us that he looks for special ingredients from small, artisanal producers; items that challenge him and excite his guests.

At the table, two pieces of pâte à pain awaited, one crispy, paper-thin bread had zucchini flowers pressed into it. They were presented, vertically, in a gold frame, which is how the menu arrived, later. Bastien, our waiter asked our food preferences, so the chef would prepare a menu with items we liked. We said “yes” to shrimp, langoustine and lobster and “no” to mussels, octopus, oysters and squid. We also said “yes” when the sommelier arrived and offered a coupe, Deutz champagne.

Pâte à pain with Zucchini flowers pressed into it.

The amuse bouche (gift from the chef) was presented in a box; the three-small squares sat on a cushion, like rings at a wedding ceremony. Called barbajuan, these were very delicate renditions of a Monegasque specialty, spinach and ricotta stuffed pastry, like a ravioli with an ultra-thin dough. The butter sourced from Normandy was a scoop on a beautiful dish; Bastien hand-crushed pepper between stones; he held the olive oil jar high and drizzled it, precisely.

Drizzling olive oil with flair.

An olive appeared to cleanse our palate. And, colorful, Provençal baby vegetables arrived, displayed on a black stone, like a still life.

Then, they brought the menu encased in a gold frame.

A gold bowl, filled with a smooth, silky fluff, was actually a puré of chick peas. The langoustine was on a dish next to a charred red radishes, which were thinly-sliced on a mandolin into round slivers and formed into a rose-like circle. Next, the spiny artichoke; it was cooked, then deep-fried to a crispy texture and topped with Kristal caviar and accompanied by a sea anemone (eel).

Langoustine and charred, red radish.

With the main courses, we drank a favorite white Burgundy, Puligny Montrachet by Vincent Girardin, 2019 with my grilled lamb from the Pyrenees, and Val’s sweet, lightly smoked, blue lobster with fat, white asparagus spears topped with myrtle berries.

Next, Bastien transported the two-story cheese cart to our table; the varied cheese selection included local cheeses from the South of France. We each tasted four or five before we received a silver finger bowl filled with water and rose petals.

That signaled that it was time for dessert. The first three included their specialty: a Rum baba with vanilla and citrus peel and whipped Chantilly cream, on which the sommelier generously poured Angostura Caribbean Rum 1919; a strawberry round with a spicy sauce and a mozzarella-like cheese; (it was a work of art) and a seared rhubarb with black lemon powder topped with buttermilk granite. Next, bite-size mignardises arrived, little sweets also called petit fours.

A strawberry tart for dessert at Le Louis XV.

Finally, Bastien pushed the second sleek black cart to our table; this one topped with flourishing potted herbs, each labeled. Using small, silver scissors, he clipped the ones we requested and infused them in hot water, like a tea. They served cumquats on little spoons, too; but we were so full that we asked that the infusion be sent to our room. By the time we arrived upstairs, their cart had arrived, set for tea service; it also included two boxes of Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse.

Pots of labelled herbs.

Before getting up from the table, we were presented with dated copies of our seven-course tasting menu, including the wines; it didn’t list every dish that we enjoyed and I, who collects signed menus, forgot to ask Chef Pilon for his signature. As we left the dining room, Mme Sonnet handed us each a large box containing a specialité de la maison from Pastry Chef, Sandro Micheli: a sugar-topped, raisin-studded, Panettone.

What to say? A gastronomic meal is an extraordinary, culinary – and theatrical — event.

To learn more about Le Louis XV, visit their website.

-Story and photos, except where noted, by Irvina Lew, Real Food Traveler Europe Editor